In honor of the dramatic solar light show on Monday August 21, 2017, the last episode of the Summer Season of Makeup Gourmet Live is dedicated to the rare Total Solar Eclipse.
We will be treated to a grand example of shadow & light which is an essential component to makeup generally and contour specifically.
heightening angles and shapes of our face has primitive roots. What fascinates me is how this primal style is often used now as an undercoat to beauty and Fashion makeup.
Historically astral events like a solar eclipse also triggered fear and doom alongside hope and joy.
I wonder what connection, if any, is there between primitive face paint and modern contour makeup.
Anyway…
The techniques used on the women in the above images are primarily reserved for photo shoots, fashion runway, film and video.
Thankfully, contour is so much easier (and so much less product) than those images.
The same concept we use to minutely contour our eyes, we enlarge to contour our face.
The primary area of contour for most makeup is the underside of the cheeks. This creates a heightened lift to the cheekbone and slim the face.
Other parts of the face subject to contour are the nose, jawline and forehead.
In the Face with a Heart technique, I refer to contour as where the face turns the corner.
The red arrows indicate the heart line which is a straight line that borders the outer corner of the lips and eyes.
Within these 2 lines are your main attractions, eyes and lips. To heighten contour it is best to keep the skin within these heart lines clear of any coloring excluding foundation, powder corrector/concealer.
The blue arrows indicate where the face ‘turns the corner’.
Here is where shading/contouring begins. Blush, contour, bronzer all live outside the heart lines, and in the best scenario, rest just outside the heart lines.
These contrast colors outside the heart line heightens the contour effect. It is, in essence, how to highlight the heart of the Face.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
If you watched Classic Contour Eyes last week, I demonstrated the anatomy of the eye as it pertains to eye shadow placement.
If you missed it, it as at time mark 8:01.
I strongly suggest watching this. Reason being is that this information applies to all eye shadow application regardless of the technique.
Getting eye shadow in the right place is mandatory for great eye makeup. As the intensity of the look increases, the more crucial it is to get color in the right place.
We will use this same anatomical placement of eye shadow for the smoky eye, only where the highest intensity (darkest) eye shadow color goes has changed.
SMOKY EYE MAKEUP DEFINED:
Smoky is a technique, not a color. It is a shadowy gradient, extending away from the eye line, dark to light.
Any combination of colors may constitute a smoky eye.
Smoky Eye Works On Everyone
One cool thing about a Smoky Eye is that translates to all eye shapes, sizes and ages. Done properly, it is truly one of the easiest eye makeup looks to do that can really be a show stopper if that is the intention.
High Contrast Smoky Eye
Smoky, however, does not necessarily mean dramatic (high contrast). Smoky is a technique that may also be used with any variety of contrast and color.
Low Contrast Smoky Eye
Medium Contrast Smoky Eye
A Colorful Smoky Eye
As you can see, the Smoky Eye technique manifests itself with a wide variety of results, depending on the colors and intensities used.
What a Smoky Eye is not
A High Contour Eye is often referred to as a Smoky Eye, but it is not.
A High Contour Eye is an extension of a Classic Contour Eye and looks like this.
The crease color is blended up onto the outer brow bone and creates a heightened look to to the eye. The ball of the eye still shows a lighter contrast intensity to the crease. We will learn this in a later episode.
Here are 3 video tutorial versions of a smoky eye to better familiarize yourself with what is really a smoky eye.
Makeup Gourmet’s products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
To maximize shape, volume, depth, and color of the eye. Eye shadow has an infinite level of possibilities, so it is best to understand the principles of eye shadow which will help create the most authentic shape of any eye. Eye shadow is the best way to maximize the shape of your eyelid.
Principles of eye shadow:
• Lighter shades bring shape forward
• Darker shades sink shapes deeper back (recede)
• Shimmer reflects light and pulls focus to it and may bring shape forward
• Matte absorbs light and diminishes reflection and may sink shape deeper back.
Now How:
There are three basic parts of an eyelid that separate and define the shape of the eye.
They are:
• Ball: The ball of the eye is the skin that has the eyeball immediately underneath it when the eyes are closed.
• Bone: The bone is any part under the eyebrow that has bone underneath it. • Crease: The crease, and this is important, is the area under the curvature of the brow bone where it meets the ball of the eye. It is a sunken groove that is highly rounded as the eye sockets are highly rounded.
Think of this crease as a groove or track where your contour brush is designed to slip into and follow the natural curvature of the eye socket where it meets the eyeball. When applying eye shadow (and most color for that matter) always add and buildup to the desired effect. Try to avoid getting too much of anything on the face and having to rub it down or off. That is the essence of makeup gone wrong. As long as the intensity is always building up away from the face, the makeup appears connected to the person wearing it and gives the greatest control when applying any look.
Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® Products & Expertise Companion Video Tutorials
Follow your eyes anatomy and eye shadow will always look perfect!
Get what you need by clicking on the products below.
Makeup Gourmet’s products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
• Epidermis:
Outermost layer of skin. Provides a waterproof barrier and creates our skin tone.
• Dermis:
Beneath the epidermis, contains tough connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands.
• Hypodermis:
The deeper subcutaneous tissue made of fat and connective tissue.
Only the epidermis is visible to the human eye. It is that miraculous outer skin layer that replenishes itself in a 30-day cycle.
The epidermis is that expendable layer of skin that protects the body from the external world. These epidermal skin cells take an environmental beating for 30 days before they retire and detach.
In that 30-day cycle a skin cell is born round and full of water which makes it young and translucent.
As each day passes and newer skin cells are made, the older skin cell is pushed closer to the outer surface of the epidermis.
As the skin cell pushes outward, the oldest skin cells (28-30 days old) have done their duty and detach from the outermost surface of the skin.
The goal of skincare is to maintain that skin cell to keep it full of water during its 30-day life.
The plumper and more hydrated the skin cell, the younger the appearance of skin. Advanced skin care is designed to do just that.
It is important not to overthink skin care as it is as basic as brushing our teeth. Done daily our teeth stay healthy.
Advanced skin care includes ingredients that attract and hold hydration into the surface skin cells.
Remember, young skin cells are round and full of water which makes them supple and translucent.
Two most important skin care steps to maximize the youthful appearance of your skin.
Use advanced skin care that includes ingredients that attract and hold hydration into the surface skin cells.
Encourage a healthy detachment/exfoliation of dead surface skin cells. This exposes the fresher, younger looking skin cells just underneath.
Disclaimer
I am simplifying this explanation so as to not compound the information.
There are additional concerns in maintaining a healthy skin cell life cycle. Let’s first learn how to maintain the basic hydration integrity of a skin cell before talking about protection. (SPF, antioxidants, etc)
Also, lifestyle, drinking water and diet are all great contributors to the health of our skin.
What attracts and keeps water in your skin
Sodium Hyaluronate A powerful humectant that attracts and holds on to water, making it the ultimate skin moisturizer. This helps to hydrate skin and keep it moist and supple by binding up to 1000 times its weight in water.
Because it attracts and binds to water, it causes slight swelling. This swelling helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and gives skin a more youthful appearance. The added water reflects light better to physically make skin look younger.
What are exfoliators and why do we want to use them?
Skin replenishes itself every 30 days. Once full grown, our body has less incentive to create skin cells at our previous growing-up rate.
Surface skin cells die but are still attached. They no longer hold water and light, and mask the brightness of the skin cells below.
The weekly removal/exfoliation of surface dead skin cells exposes the fresh living skin cells and promotes more rapid skin cell reproduction. This results in our skin behaving and looking like young translucent skin.
The instruction and advice I share with anyone who wants to exfoliate is this.
It is important to understand why this simple and inexpensive activity promotes younger looking skin.
By gently and consistently removing the build-up of surface dead skin cells, our body responds by making fresh new skin cells at a more rapid rate. Our skin begins to mimic its performance as when we were growing into maturity. You basically trick the skin to work harder. It is happy to do so because your skin wants to protect you by maintaining a healthy amount of surface skin cells. You just need to give your skin a reason.
How you exfoliate matters. Even though the surface layer of skin cells are dead, they are still attached. If you aggressively remove them by any means, a scrub, a wash cloth, a brush, this will only cause damage to your skin.
Think of exfoliation as an act of seduction or a massage. Gently and continually circle in an area until the dead skin cell loosens and voluntarily leaves the body. In this manner there is no tear on the surface of the skin and your skin cell regenerators happily replace the now removed dead skin cells.
If the dead skin cell is aggressively removed, a small tear occurs on the skin and the skin goes in to repair mode rather than replenish mode. This mean that along with cells renewing, clotting blood cells are also sent to that area and repair must take place before revealing the younger, fresher skin cells underneath.
For best results think slow and long when it comes to exfoliation.
Personal note: Of all the personal skin care methods and products, proper exfoliation is the most effective practice in always maintaining the smoothest, healthiest and young looking skin.
Here are my products that exfoliate and help promote better exfoliation.
Gives skin a professional, spa-like exfoliating facial. Contains microdermabrasion scrub that safely and efficiently removes dead skin cells leaving a silky smooth texture that is ready to welcome rejuvenating new skin cells. Recommended for: All skin types. Paraben free • Talc free • Lanolin free. Made in USA
I recommend a weekly exfoliation and more if skin feels rough or looks flaky.
Products containing Glycolic Acid to promote easier exfoliation.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
This was my biggest takeaway when I first learned airbrush makeup 7 years ago this month.
After practicing makeup artistry for 25 years, and teaching others how to apply makeup, it was absolutely thrilling to learn a new form of makeup application.
I had seen airbrush being applied in Sephora and I thought how hard can that be?
I saw a people holding this metal device and drawing circles on people’s faces and I thought, well, that might be fun.
What I learned was nothing I had previously seen that day in Sephora.
There is familiarity with a tool and then there’s mastery of a tool.
The way someone holds their tool will tell you if it is just something in their hand or part of their hand.
Great carpenters have that relationship with their tools. Great hairstylists have that relationship with their scissors. Great musicians have that relationship with their instrument. And great makeup artists have that relationship with their brushes, especially the airbrush.
Some motor muscle habits are hard to break. That is why I was fortunate that the first time I used the airbrush I was trained in such a specific and highly effective manner.
The technique names don’t make much sense when you first hear them, but in practice make perfect sense.
The techniques are called dots & dashes. We worked on blank paper and perfected the result on paper.
With airbrush makeup that is all you are doing, either dots or dashes.
Not to undermine anyone who applies airbrush with a circular motion however I have found the dots & dashes technique superior.
When airbrush is applied in a circular motion the result is that your face is uniformly covered with makeup.
With dots & dashes, their is a purpose behind every dot and dash that selectively applies makeup specifically to the needs of the model.
The idea of airbrush makeup is that it is the most skin like application possible.
Airbrush makeup became a necessity when high definition (HD) became a household name. The reality behind high definition is that the eye sees four times more visual information than in day-to-day life. This means visual information is amplified in high definition, and if makeup is just a little too much in person, it is four times too much in high definition. Airbrush solves that dilemma.
Because the mist of airbrush is so fine, you are not able to see it go on the skin when applied. This is why you apply airbrush with your ears, not your eyes. You learn to hear how much product is being delivered from the airbrush so you know when enough is enough.
At my last airbrush makeup wedding party application I had a new assistant working with me to clean my airbrush in between clients. She remarked afterwards, I don’t know how you can see what you’re doing because from where I was sitting I couldn’t see anything happening when you were applying the airbrush. Her statement was validation completely of the mantra: apply with your ears and not your eyes. Something is definitely happening when you apply airbrush, but it is not until you step away from the model that you can see the results.
As a purist I always want to say no. As a realist I must say yes.
No makeup brush other than the airbrush can do what the airbrush can do.
This is why airbrush makeup is a big buzz word for wedding makeup.
The information out there is that you have to have airbrush if you want to look your best.
I don’t believe that is true. 95% of my bridal makeup has been done with traditional makeup and brides look and feel great and tell me so.
The difference is these days photographers and videographers are using high-definition lenses. What we see in person is not what we see in digital imagery. This is where airbrush makes a huge difference.
In person, an airbrush makeup still has an advantage over traditional makeup. Skin appears smoother, and if applied correctly, less ‘made-up’.
In high definition photos and videos there is no question that airbrush handles the HD visual information overload more gracefully than traditional makeup.
I don’t believe so. There is a constant stream of cool air when airbrush is being applied. Your face needs to be 100% calm without any tensing whatsoever. This is best achieved with eyes closed and calm thoughts.
I know there are people who apply airbrush to themselves everyday. And for a majority of the face their application may come out okay, but for those tight areas around the eyes and nose, it becomes impossible with the blowing of the air.
I am going to share the basics of using airbrush makeup on my Makeup Gourmet Live YouTube show Tuesday July 18th 2017. It will be recorded as well so you may watch it anytime. It will give you great insight into the subtlety and mystery of the airbrush.
Those watching the episode Live will be given a 20% Makeup Gourmet Cosmetics discount code that may be used towards their entire cart up to midnight (pst) of the day of the episode. *This offer valid for full retail price items only. May not be used with already discounted products/Value Bundles. May not be combined with any other promotions, coupons and special offers.
If you live and/or visit the San Francisco Bay Area and want to model for the show please send us an email with your photo and what your biggest makeup challenge is to info@makeupGourmet.com.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
Every student I teach comes to makeup artist training with an unique level of experience and expectation.
Some know exactly what they want to do with their new skill and some have no idea.
They all want to be the best makeup artist they can be regardless of what they do with their newly developed talent.
At Makeup Gourmet Studios, we cater to the individual as well as a group’s needs.
We offer :
Private Training (one person)
Small Group Training (2-3 people, organized by the group)
Standard Group Training (4-10 maximum, organized by the group)
Makeup Gourmet does not organize group classes. All group classes (2 or more) are organized by attending students.
Studio Hours are:
Tuesdays – Saturdays 10am to 6 pm
Night training available Thursday Nights 6 to 10 pm
We will schedule your training as both our calendars permit.
Makeup Gourmet Makeup Training Philosophy
As with any higher skill, practice, practice, practice.
You will learn what you need to know.
It is up to you to have makeup artistry become second nature.
This means doing makeup on everyone you know, over and over again.
This means imitating looks from makeup images to which you aspire.
This means figuring things out.
Master musicians play basic scales every day.
Ballerinas do 8 plies in every position every day.
This is said not as intimidation. It is said as a teacher to a student.
I can teach you what to do. It is up to you to master it.
If you are wondering when is the best time to start…
Training Courses
For the aspiring makeup artist
20-Hour Jump Start Certification Training
Learn the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method
and be able to confidently apply anyone’s makeup for any occasion.
This program is designed for the motivated student who wants to
maximize their time and money investment.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
With summer as a reminder, my good friend and peer Juliette suggested doing a Makeup Gourmet Live episode on décolleté care.
I am so face-focused it never occurred to me to address décolleté care as a topic.
Having extensive training and experience in skincare (I have my own skincare line for both men and women) I made a mental list of the steps I want to recommend (and have recommended to clients).
The research confirmed everything on my mental list and offered some important reminders.
The one aspect of décolleté care that I had not considered was the physical makeup of the skin in the décolleté area.
Following are excerpts from my research. I am quoting these authors and providing links to the full articles.
Firstly, what is the physical makeup of the skin in the décolleté area?
Because the décolleté is thinner with fewer oil glands it is more susceptible to sun damage, aging and irritation and slower to heal from injury and age related changes. The skin on the décolleté area is also more sensitive than skin on other parts of our body and has less elasticity as there is no fat tissue to act as a cushion. So the skin is more likely to have dryness and discoloration or hyper-pigmentation.
Just like the skin on the face, the skin on the neck and décolleté is a vulnerable region that shows the usual signs of aging: fine or deep-set lines, loss of elasticity, dryness and discoloration from sun damage.
The skin and muscles in the neck are thicker and stronger since they support the jawline and head. However, the major neck muscle is not connected to the bone structure; therefore, it is more prone to loss of elasticity.
The female bust is formed and composed of different types of tissues: glandular, fat and connective tissue. The breast has no muscles, bands or sinews for support, except for the large breast muscle.
In both the neck and décolleté, there is very little fatty tissue and fewer oil glands, therefore making this area more prone to wrinkling and dryness. Also, people who experience hormonal aging may also notice a difference in the texture and tone of skin.
Now to décolleté care
Treating the neck and décolleté is a concern is not just for mature clients but for younger clients who want to preserve and slow down the aging process.
The skin on the décolletage doesn’t produce as much natural oil as the skin on your face so start caring for your neck and chest area as you would your complexion.
For example, when applying cleanser and moisturizer make sure you apply them right down to your chest. Cosmetics counters are filled with products which promise to perk up or boost the bust area but most contain ingredients that do nothing more than temporarily improve the quality and the appearance of the skin by moisturizing it.
This will improve the appearance of the skin because it will become more hydrated.
‘Always use sun protection in this area,’ says Madfes. (The Canadian Dermatology Association recommends minimum SPF 30.) If pigmentation and the beginnings of fine lines are starting to drive your cleavage undercover, anti-aging creams may help. These can be the same products you use on your face. Gentle face scrubs can also help even out skin tone.
Creams and serums designed specifically for the neck, or for the neck and chest, may be very appealing, although whether there is much difference between décolleté-specific creams and ones for the face is hard to say. They tend to be expensive, but budget-friendly options are starting to appear on store shelves.
Can you use facial moisturizers and SPF formulas on the neck and décolleté?
If you’re younger and are looking for a preventative – rather than a reparative – solution, starting with your regular moisturizer is a great place to start. However, if your skin is more mature and shows more need for repair, lifting, tightening and rejuvenation, you should use a cream specifically designed to work with the unique characteristics of the neck and décolleté.
If you want to invest in a neck and décolleté treatment, what should you look for in a product?
Look for key ingredients, starting with peptides, which help to replenish lost collagen and promote cell turnover for smoother, firmer skin. Other recommended key ingredients include:
Glycolic acid – to exfoliate and promote smoother skin, leading to a more even skin tone
Niacinamide – a B3 vitamin that helps strengthen the skin barrier and minimize past sun damage.
Retinols, retinoids or retin A– to speed up cell turnover and promote collagen build-up
Vitamin E – for antioxidant repair
Shea butter – intense hydration with a lightweight texture since it’s compatible with the skin.
Exfoliate weekly to promote skin cell turnover so the products absorb better. Use massage motions toward the heart to promote lymphatic drainage and promote circulation.
A note about antioxidants.
Antioxidants help prevent surface skin from oxidizing (rusting). There are dozens of effective antioxidants suitable for topical application. All are good and the more the merrier.
Makeup Gourmet products with ingredients key to décolleté care
A creamy non-drying cleanser enriched w/ Glycolic and mixed Fruit Acids that gently exfoliates, while Botanical extracts leave skin soft and refreshed. Available in Value Bundle Glycolic Content:3.5%
Size: 8 fl. oz (236 ml) Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free
Recommended for: All skin types .
Made in USA
Enriched w/ Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen and Retinoids, this emollient serum hydrates the skin leaving it soft and supple, while Anti-oxidants and soy proteins help protect against environmental damage. Available in Value Bundle Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free Recommended for: All skin types.
Made in USA
Contains a blend of powerful proprietary oligopeptides and tetrapeptides that help relax and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Size: 0.5 fl. oz. (14 ml) Available in Value Bundle Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free Recommended for: All skin types.
Made in USA
This luxurious, oil-free crème helps exfoliate dead skin cells while you sleep.It helps remove signs of aging, dryness and uneven skin tone. Besides facial skin, this cream is ideal for hydrating and repairing the Décolleté area. Always use SPF 50 over cream when using on the neck and décolleté during the day.
Glycolic Content: 4.31%
Size: 1 oz. (28.35 g) Cruelty free | Paraben Free | Sulfate free | Gluten Free Recommended for: All skin types. Made in USA
Gives skin a professional, spa-like exfoliating facial. Contains microdermabrasion scrub that safely and efficiently removes dead skin cells leaving a silky smooth texture that is ready to welcome rejuvenating new skin cells. Available in Value Bundle
Size: 3.0 fl. oz. (85 ml) Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free
Recommended for: All skin types. Made in USA
Here is something I knew but didn’t cross my mind to articulate.
Always use an SPF year round — a facial or body sunscreen is sufficient, especially since most neck and décolleté treatments do not include SPF.
Note to self: Sunscreen is always applied last going on top (closest to the sun) of all the other treatment you have blended into your skin.
Always use an SPF year round, especially since most neck and décolleté treatments do not include SPF.
Note to self: Sunscreen is always applied last going on top (closest to the sun) of all the other treatment you have blended into your skin.
Because of the skin-shedding nature of glycolic acid, it increases sun sensitivity. Fresher skin cells are exposed prematurely and are ripe to be damaged by the sun.
I suggest using an SPF 50 which blocks an estimated 98 percent of UVB rays. I prefer body SPF over face as you usually get way more product for your money.
Caveat
Most body SPF products protect from UVB rays, and not UVA rays.
Here is an easy way to remember the difference:
UVBurning rays
UVAging rays
UVB rays produce melanin production in our skin that leads to spotting, redness, hyper-pigmentation (a cluster of spotting that appears as a darker patch), a weathered appearance and texture of the skin, and the worst- skin cancer.
UVA rays break down the ‘cushion’ (collagen) in our skin and results in the appearance of lines, loss of elasticity and a thinning of the skin.
Whatever you do, make sure your SPF lotion address both UVA and UVB rays. This category of sunblock is commonly called full spectrum.
Concise and correct article about SPF.
http://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/ask-the-experts/does-a-higher-spf-sunscreen-always-protect-your-skin-better
Besides using topical treatments, how else can you strengthen this area?
Consider targeted exercises for the neck.
One to try: Lay flat on a soft blanket, legs flat in front and head propped onto a soft, thin pillow. Slowly lift your head using the neck muscles but not the abdominal muscles, approximately four inches off the floor, hold and then release back onto the pillow. Repeat ten times. Try the same lifting motions with the head facing left and right. When finished, sit up on the blanket and tilt the neck towards the ceiling.
Beyond Self décolleté care
There are some concerns that go beyond what is possible with your own décolleté care. The same medical treatments available for the face are valid for the décolleté.
If you want dark spots removed or lines filled or any other concern you may have that you cannot address at home, some of the source links for this post provided below provide counsel on what dermatologists and plastic surgeons are able to offer.
Those watching the episode Live will be given a 20% Makeup Gourmet Cosmetics discount code that may be used towards their entire cart up to midnight (pst) of the day of the episode. *This offer valid for full retail price items only. May not be used with already discounted products/Value Bundles. May not be combined with any other promotions, coupons and special offers.
If you live and/or visit the San Francisco Bay Area and want to model for the show please send us an email with your photo and what your biggest makeup challenge is to info@makeupGourmet.com.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
With summer as a reminder, my good friend and peer Juliette suggested doing a Makeup Gourmet Live episode on décolleté care.
I am so face-focused it never occurred to me to address décolleté care as a topic.
Having extensive training and experience in skincare (I have my own skincare line for both men and women) I made a mental list of the steps I want to recommend (and have recommended to clients).
The research confirmed everything on my mental list and offered some important reminders.
The one aspect of décolleté care that I had not considered was the physical makeup of the skin in the décolleté area.
Following are excerpts from my research. I am quoting these authors and providing links to the full articles.
Firstly, what is the physical makeup of the skin in the décolleté area?
Because the décolleté is thinner with fewer oil glands it is more susceptible to sun damage, aging and irritation and slower to heal from injury and age related changes. The skin on the décolleté area is also more sensitive than skin on other parts of our body and has less elasticity as there is no fat tissue to act as a cushion. So the skin is more likely to have dryness and discoloration or hyper-pigmentation.
Just like the skin on the face, the skin on the neck and décolleté is a vulnerable region that shows the usual signs of aging: fine or deep-set lines, loss of elasticity, dryness and discoloration from sun damage.
The skin and muscles in the neck are thicker and stronger since they support the jawline and head. However, the major neck muscle is not connected to the bone structure; therefore, it is more prone to loss of elasticity.
The female bust is formed and composed of different types of tissues: glandular, fat and connective tissue. The breast has no muscles, bands or sinews for support, except for the large breast muscle.
In both the neck and décolleté, there is very little fatty tissue and fewer oil glands, therefore making this area more prone to wrinkling and dryness. Also, people who experience hormonal aging may also notice a difference in the texture and tone of skin.
Now to décolleté care
Treating the neck and décolleté is a concern not just for mature clients, but also for younger clients who want to preserve and slow down the appearance of the aging process.
The skin on the décolletage doesn’t produce as much natural oil as the skin on your face so start caring for your neck and chest area as you would your complexion.
For example, when applying cleanser and moisturizer make sure you apply them right down to your chest. Cosmetics counters are filled with products which promise to perk up or boost the bust area but most contain ingredients that do nothing more than temporarily improve the quality and the appearance of the skin by moisturizing it.
This will improve the appearance of the skin because it will become more hydrated.
‘Always use sun protection in this area,’ says Madfes. (The Canadian Dermatology Association recommends minimum SPF 30.) If pigmentation and the beginnings of fine lines are starting to drive your cleavage undercover, anti-aging creams may help. These can be the same products you use on your face. Gentle face scrubs can also help even out skin tone.
Creams and serums designed specifically for the neck, or for the neck and chest, may be very appealing, although whether there is much difference between décolleté-specific creams and ones for the face is hard to say. They tend to be expensive, but budget-friendly options are starting to appear on store shelves.
Can you use facial moisturizers and SPF formulas on the neck and décolleté?
If you’re younger and are looking for a preventative – rather than a reparative – solution, starting with your regular moisturizer is a great place to start. However, if your skin is more mature and shows more need for repair, lifting, tightening and rejuvenation, use products with ingredients specifically designed to address and repair more significant signs of aging.
If you want to invest in a neck and décolleté treatment, what should you look for in a product?
Look for key ingredients, starting with peptides, which help to replenish lost collagen and promote cell turnover for smoother, firmer skin. Other recommended key ingredients include:
Glycolic acid – to exfoliate and promote smoother skin, leading to a more even skin tone
Peptides – Help relax and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Niacinamide – a B3 vitamin that helps strengthen the skin barrier and minimize past sun damage.
Retinols, retinoids or retin A– to speed up cell turnover and promote collagen build-up
Antioxidants – Protection for surface skin cells being ‘rusted’ from oxidants.
Shea butter – intense hydration with a lightweight texture since it’s compatible with the skin.
Exfoliate weekly to promote skin cell turnover so the products absorb better. Use massage motions toward the heart to promote lymphatic drainage and promote circulation.
A note about antioxidants.
Antioxidants help prevent surface skin from oxidizing (rusting). There are dozens of effective antioxidants suitable for topical application. All are good and the more the merrier.
Makeup Gourmet products with ingredients key to décolleté care
A creamy non-drying cleanser enriched w/ Glycolic and mixed Fruit Acids that gently exfoliates, while Botanical extracts leave skin soft and refreshed. Available in Value Bundle Glycolic Content:3.5%
Size: 8 fl. oz (236 ml) Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free
Recommended for: All skin types .
Made in USA
Enriched w/ Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen and Retinoids, this emollient serum hydrates the skin leaving it soft and supple, while Anti-oxidants and soy proteins help protect against environmental damage. Available in Value Bundle Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free Recommended for: All skin types.
Made in USA
Contains a blend of powerful proprietary oligopeptides and tetrapeptides that help relax and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Size: 0.5 fl. oz. (14 ml) Available in Value Bundle Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free Recommended for: All skin types.
Made in USA
This luxurious, oil-free crème helps exfoliate dead skin cells while you sleep.It helps remove signs of aging, dryness and uneven skin tone.
Glycolic Content: 4.31%
Size: 1 oz. (28.35 g) Cruelty free | Paraben Free | Sulfate free | Gluten Free Recommended for: All skin types. Made in USA
Gives skin a professional, spa-like exfoliating facial. Contains microdermabrasion scrub that safely and efficiently removes dead skin cells leaving a silky smooth texture that is ready to welcome rejuvenating new skin cells. Size: 3.0 fl. oz. (85 ml) Available in Value Bundle Cruelty free | Paraben free | Sulfate free | Gluten free
Recommended for: All skin types. Made in USA
Here is something I knew but didn’t cross my mind to articulate.
Always use an SPF year round — a facial or body sunscreen is sufficient, especially since most neck and décolleté treatments do not include SPF.
Note to self: Sunscreen is always applied last going on top (closest to the sun) of all the other treatment you have blended into your skin.
Always use an SPF year round, especially since most neck and décolleté treatments do not include SPF.
Note to self: Sunscreen is always applied last going on top (closest to the sun) of all the other treatment you have blended into your skin.
Because of the skin-shedding nature of glycolic acid, it increases sun sensitivity. Fresher skin cells are exposed prematurely and are ripe to be damaged by the sun.
I suggest using an SPF 50 which blocks an estimated 98 percent of UVB rays. I prefer body SPF over face as you usually get way more product for your money.
Caveat
Most body SPF products protect from UVB rays, and not UVA rays.
Here is an easy way to remember the difference:
UVBurning rays
UVAging rays
UVB rays produce melanin production in our skin that leads to spotting, redness, hyper-pigmentation (a cluster of spotting that appears as a darker patch), a weathered appearance and texture of the skin, and the worst- skin cancer.
UVA rays break down the ‘cushion’ (collagen) in our skin and results in the appearance of lines, loss of elasticity and a thinning of the skin.
Whatever you do, make sure your SPF lotion address both UVA and UVB rays. This category of sunblock is commonly called full spectrum.
Concise and correct article about SPF.
http://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/ask-the-experts/does-a-higher-spf-sunscreen-always-protect-your-skin-better
Besides using topical treatments, how else can you strengthen this area?
Consider targeted exercises for the neck.
One to try: Lay flat on a soft blanket, legs flat in front and head propped onto a soft, thin pillow. Slowly lift your head using the neck muscles but not the abdominal muscles, approximately four inches off the floor, hold and then release back onto the pillow. Repeat ten times. Try the same lifting motions with the head facing left and right. When finished, sit up on the blanket and tilt the neck towards the ceiling.
Beyond Self décolleté care
There are some concerns that go beyond what is possible with your own décolleté care. The same medical treatments available for the face are valid for the décolleté.
If you want dark spots removed or lines filled or any other concern you may have that you cannot address at home, some of the source links for this post provided below provide counsel on what dermatologists and plastic surgeons are able to offer.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
Those watching the episode Live will be given a 20% Makeup Gourmet Cosmetics discount code that may be used towards their entire cart up to midnight (pst) of the day of the episode. *This offer valid for full retail price items only. May not be used with already discounted products/Value Bundles. May not be combined with any other promotions, coupons and special offers.
If you live and/or visit the San Francisco Bay Area and want to model for the show please send us an email with your photo and what your biggest makeup challenge is to info@makeupGourmet.com.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
Below is some warm-up info for this episode and tips on how to maximize your Makeup Gourmet Live experience. (All episodes are recorded for viewing if not able to watch it Live.)
Glasses have frames. The frames create their own structural framework.
Glasses tend to mask your eyes. In short, the frames win.
Many of my eyeglass wearing clients ask for tips for eye makeup that works with the dominant presence of glasses.
To stand up to the structured frame of eyeglasses, I suggest devoting your makeup application to the main structural features of your eye, the eye brows and eyeliner.
If you clearly define your eyebrows and eyeliner, it will read along with your glasses.
I am not suggesting this is all you do if you want to do more. It is in my experience that emphasizing the eyebrows and eyeliner have the greater impact when paired with glasses.
The finer nuances of eye shadow often get lost through the translation of glasses. If you prefer wearing full eye makeup including eye shadows, by all means do.
One mistake I see is when we try to use a lot of eye shadow or over emphasize eye brow makeup to help the eyes stand out. A cleaner look with glasses supports a more balanced look.
Glasses open the opportunity to wear a brighter or darker lip color than you would normally choose. Because eye glass frames grab our attention it works to use a slightly more attention grabbing lip color to balance the two main features of the face, eyes and lips.
Here are 3 video tutorials demonstrating great techniques to use when wearing glasses.
Eye Brow Tutorial
Eye Liner (Wedge Eye Liner)
Eye Shadow Technique (Modern Contour)
I hope this offering will clarify and simplify effective eye makeup techniques when wearing glasses.
Those watching the episode Live will be given a 20% Makeup Gourmet Cosmetics discount code that may be used towards their entire cart up to midnight (pst) of the day of the episode. *This offer valid for full retail price items only. May not be used with already discounted products/Value Bundles. May not be combined with any other promotions, coupons and special offers.
If you live and/or visit the San Francisco Bay Area and want to model for the show please send us an email with your photo and what your biggest makeup challenge is to info@makeupGourmet.com.
Makeup Gourmet’s Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® products are developed alongside the Face with a Heart Authentic Beauty Makeup® method of application. They are customized to give you the best results when applying your makeup.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
