No matter how careful the makeup application is, there are times when too much makeup has been applied. Its appearance is thicker than your skin and sits on top of the face. The instinctual reaction is to wipe some off spreading things sideways and thinning the makeup indiscriminately. There is a better way.
The best technique for flattening any slip product is press and roll. This means to physically flatten the product into the skin with your finger or sponge. This is especially useful when applying concealer, corrector, and foundation.
For smaller areas where too much has been applied, usually under the eyes, using the pad of the top of your middle finger is the best tool. It is rounded and pliable and works itself well into that snuggie corner between the nose and under eye.
The motion is as follows. Press the pad of the middle finger where you have too much product and turn your wrist side to side while applying pressure with the finger. The pad of the finger is rolling back and forth over the area you want to diminish. Without removing virtually any product, the product on the skin flattens and smooths into the skin and becomes part of the skin.
Sometimes rather than pressing and rolling you may simply tap the pad of the finger along the area of concern to flatten it as well. Tt is important to understand that you are not tapping the area like you would your finger on the table to make a noise. It is a more focused pressure that gently yet firmly flattens the product into the skin.
The technique for using a makeup sponge with the press and roll is simply replacing the pad of the finger for the pad of the sponge. If using a flat sided sponge, squeeze it between your thumb and other fingers so that it becomes rounded. If using a curved sponge, such as the egg sponge, it is already curved for you. The action is virtually the same as when you use your finger. Press the pad of the sponge into the area you want to smooth and roll your wrist. Mechanically with this technique it feels more comfortable to roll in Just one direction, not back and forth. Either way is fine.
Using the sponge is amazing for making any wet foundation application look more skin like. If too much foundation has been applied, this technique will solve the problem. If the right amount has been applied, it only makes the application look better by making it more skin like. I suggest using this technique when using wet foundation every time.
This concludes our four-part series on the concept of skin thin makeup and the techniques used to make it possible. I hope you found this of some use and can use these techniques in the future.
No one is alone in wanting to be better at applying their makeup. The best way to improve is take a lesson with me. if coming to San Francisco is available to you, you may visit my studio for your own lesson. If that is not an option I have great success with live one-on-one online makeup lessons. Although makeup is the same, everyone is different and personal advice and technique is all it takes to improve your makeup application game.
A parting thought. Understand that everyone uses the same makeup. They put it in the same places on their face. The difference in the outcome is the attention to detail. Most people apply their makeup generally and because of this, their makeup looks generally good. Some people apply the same makeup specifically and their makeup looks specifically good. The trick is in the specifics. Learn the specifics and have your makeup look specifically good.
Skin Thin Makeup: 4-Part Series
Part Two – Hold The Brush Like A Microphone (or a wine glass, whichever visual works for you).
This revealing series on Skin Thin Makeup. is complete.
12th of September, 2019
Makeup Gourmet Chris Scott’s series of how-to video tutorials based on his #1 international best seller
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CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades. He designed the course and taught Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure everyone has access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare made in the USA. Chris is the author of the International #1 Amazon Bestseller FACE WITH A HEART: MASTERING AUTHENTIC BEAUTY MAKEUP (2014), the COSMETIC COUNTER SURVIVAL GUIDE: HOW TO BUY THE RIGHT SKINCARE AND MAKEUP (2003) and released February 2019, HOW A MAKEUP ARTIST BECOMES A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’