Makeup Gourmet Chris Scott’s series of how-to video tutorials based on his #1 international best seller
Face with a Heart Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup
I cannot say enough about correctors. They have fundamentally reinvented my approach to beauty makeup.
Correctors, unlike concealer neutralize rather than cover redness and darkness in skin.
And the party is just getting started.
When correctors are applied following the Face with a Heart method, they reflect light better, heighten facial contours, and flatten under-eye puffiness and circles.
Wait- there’s more! Correctors end up being 80% of your foundation, even though you will be using 50% less of it.
This translates to a heightened skin-tone and facial contour with 1/3rd of the product. Believe it.
The correct Corrector colors for you is dependent on the intensity of your skintone from light to dark.
Overall Face with a Heart Corrector Application Chart
Overwhelming and confusing when seen at first glance.
Here is the application breakdown:
Under-eye.
One of the biggest concerns in makeup is the under eye area. Darkness distracts from the eyes and generally promotes a fatigued look. Beyond neutralizing the darkness, this method redirects the way light plays under the eyes to create an upward/outward lift that highlights the heart and vault of the face.
To do this, work with a more geometric shaped application. Instead of following the round orbital eye socket with product, reshape the under eye area to create the vaulted lifted appearance to the eye.
Pink and yellow/orange are the darkness correctors/neutralizers. Pink works with light to medium skin tones and yellow/orange work with medium-dark to dark skin tones.
Think of drawing a checkmark with the corrector/concealer brush.
• Start at the inner corner of the eye, apply straight down along the side of the nose until pass the orbital eye socket bone (but above the nasal fold)
• Then in a straight, slightly upward angled direction, draw outwards past the outer corner of the eye and along the shelf of the cheekbone, allowing the product to trail off once past the outer corner of the eye.
• Now fill in the checkmark up to the bottom lashes/ eye liner with the corrector. It is important to get this corrector snug to the bottom eyelashes so no darkness remains.
Corrector Application Tips
• As with all makeup application, start with a small amount and build up to the desired coverage.
• The area of distraction will slowly fade into a neutral tone.
• Keep adding until no more is needed. That is just before the point when the area stars to look like the color of the corrector and not neutral anymore.
• The best way to blend without removing the product is to tap/press repeatedly with the pad of the middle finger (because it is the widest finger) until the product lays snugly in the skin and not on top.
If there are other areas of the face within the heart with distracting darkness, neutralize it by either stippling the corrector with your concealer brush or by putting the product on the pad of the middle finger and repeatedly tap/press until the darkness fades.
Remember that foundation follows next so no need to get full coverage now. Use just enough to neutralize the area.
Next up: redness correctors
Green and yellow/orange are the redness correctors/neutralizers. Green works with light to medium skin tones and yellow/orange work with medium-dark to dark skin tones.
Be specific with this application.
For the sake of this style of beauty makeup, the primary concern with pattern redness is within the interior of the heart of the face.
Pattern redness is an area of skin that appears red rather than a red dot like a blemish. Focus on the redness up to the border line of the heart of the face.
This enhances the heart/vault of the face by isolating the clarity of skin-tone within the heart.
A note: Correctors are powerful makeup tools. Beyond neutralizing, they also brighten and heighten the skin where it is used. That is why it is most effective to use these products within the heart of the face only to achieve the lifted vaulted effect.
By bordering the heart line, the face will lift beautifully. If used outside the heart line, they can diminish the effect of the Face with a Heart.
Facial contour and blush will be added outside the heart line so it is not as important to neutralize the redness outside the heart of the face.
Using a corrector/concealer brush, slowly brush on the green corrector over the redness until the redness is neutralized, visualizing the imaginary line from the outer corner of the lip to the outer corner of the eye.
If the color of the corrector begins to emerge, too much has been used. Stop there and stipple the corrector with a finger or foundation sponge. Avoid rubbing or wiping the corrector as that will reduce both efficacy of the corrector and face shape.
Lightly powder the corrector before applying foundation to increase the integrity of the corrector.
Remember: Any layer of makeup thicker than your top layer of skin is sitting on your skin and not part of your skin. Please avoid thinking more is better. Skin thin is the perfect amount!
Once complete, you will see you only need 20% of the foundation you normally use for a clearer, brighter and more facially contoured finish.
Way less makeup. Way more authentic perfection!
Next post: Foundation.
Face with a Heart
Authentic Beauty Makeup™
Products & Expertise
Here are two Corrector demo videos
It is required to login to MakeupGourmet.com to view these videos.
The videos are a complimentary resource.
Note: This series of video tutorials is organized in a specific order of application. It is not necessary to do every step when you do your makeup but I do suggest you follow the order of the videos and skip the steps that don’t apply to you.
Please let me know if this blog was of value to you and share your own Authentic Beauty Makeup tips in the comments box below. I would love to hear how you get on trying this new method of makeup application – tell me how useful you find the tutorials and how you found the results. You can also use the comments box to tell me what interests and concerns you when it comes to which makeup colors to choose. Please let me know so I can fashion future blogs that are relevant and interesting to you.
Want to know more? My new book, Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup is available on Amazon now.
Warmly,
Chris Scott
1oth of May, 2016
CHRIS SCOTT, M.A. is the creator of San Francisco-based Makeup Gourmet®. Over his nearly 30-year career, in addition to doing makeup for top models from every corner of the planet, he also had the honor of working for legends like Paul McCartney, US Vice President Al Gore, Shirley Temple Black, Maya Angelou and Olympic Gold medalists Oksana Baiul and Kristi Yamaguchi. He was the creator and host of the TV show ‘Makeup Gourmet’ from 2008 – 2010. He was a leading Chanel Beauté national artist for over two decades, and is also the creator and guest teacher of Fashion Makeup at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. He created his unique Makeup Gourmet line to ensure his clients and the public could have access to high-quality, ethically produced, ‘green’ makeup and skincare with a low-carbon footprint. Chris is also the author of Cosmetic Counter Survival Guide: How to Buy the Right Skin Care and Makeup and the international #1 bestseller Face with a Heart: Mastering Authentic Beauty Makeup.
‘The grass is always greener where you water it.’
CS
Fine angled brush (preferably synthetic, like an eyebrow color brush)
Foundation
After lip color is fully applied, use the thin crisp edge of the angled brush to ‘clean up’ along the outer edge of the lips.
